The Best Dog Training Tips

By | October 8, 2022

This is a compilation of my favorite dog training tips and tricks! From teaching your dog to listen to you no matter what even if you don't have something the dog wants, working for toys to doing more than one behavior in a row without getting frustrated.

00:00 Intro
02:12 Building speed to behaviors using toys to train
07:26 Drop reliably when tugging
14:15 Using a toy to train a sequence of behaviors
22:06 Build confidence
30:13 Build confidence with objects
34:14 Teach your dog to do more than one behavior before a treat
43:08 Teach your puppy to be a genius
48:57 Adding a verbal cue – down and spin as examples
01:02:56 Building Duration to a stay
01:11:24 Adding distractions
01:19:31 Adding Distance
01:27:03 Teach your dog to listen to you when you don’t have anything they want

Dog training tutorial for teaching Drop it and get it-

Proofing drop and get it with a fun game-

Thanks so much for watching! Happy Training!

#dogtraining


Hello everyone this is a compilation of Some of my favorite tips and tricks for Training your dog or puppy I hope you Enjoy today I want to talk about Teaching your dog to work for toys so That they can increase their speed doing Behaviors so Bliss is nine months old I Would usually wait till the dog is Around 12 months old when the behaviors Are really reliable and they really find Playing with toys reinforcing so you Really want to have a clean Reinforcement delivery with the toys and I don't have it just yet with bliss so That's why I'm going to show you Sometimes when I ask him to drop it I Haven't really worked on it because I I Have three young dogs and he's my Service dog so we've been working on Other behaviors More than getting him interested in Working for toys so much more calm stuff Using food and so now's the perfect Opportunity now you want your dog to Have strong behaviors that that they Know very reliably for food so they can Do the behavior spin or twirl or maybe Sit is the strongest behavior for your Dog or leg weaving and then do it in Different environments ask for multiple Behaviors and if your dog is reliably Doing behaviors you can move on to using Toys where your dog is reliably taking It dropping it or fetching it nicely

Before you then do the training so I Just want to warm them up by getting him Interested in playing with the toys so I Can see that the behaviors are reliable That he's going to get it when I say get It and drop it when I say drop it are You ready blissy ready get it oh good Boy Oh that made everyone drop so if he Doesn't drop I'm going to tap the Frisbee and get him interested in the Other one what's this what's this good Get it awesome Drop good Get it good job drop get it nice drop Get it drop get it so um what I suggest For myself is to work on this exercise Three times you know uh maybe this Morning or this morning and this evening Or three days in a row and really drop Get that cue where when I say drop the Toy he's like blip and he spits it out Because he wants to spit it out drop Good get it so if you were wanting to Rush things if you're going to play tug With your dog and they don't drop Reliably when you're tugging You Can Let Go Get it And then say drop and then they will be More reliable letting go of the toy if You're training a behavior and they're Getting super excited because you don't Really want to ruin your drop as you're

Trying to increase speed in a behavior Because then when you try to use toys in The future it's going to turn into a Please can you drop that Are you ready he's ready Are you ready free so I would like to Teach them to spin a little bit faster So what I'm going to do is use the toy As Allure which we've also worked on are You ready twirl Get it good job good job because I'm not Sure if he'll drop it I'll say drop After I let go Ready and if he starts to jump for the Toys I can just wait And make sure he's focused again Ready twirl Twirl Kenny good job drop Good get it drop and because drop isn't A very reliable Behavior yet because I Haven't worked on it Um drop I'm going to start working on Drop and get it as well so those are two Behaviors drop get it as well as Spinning drop get it Drop get it Watch ready are you steady ready twirl Yes and twirl and twirl and twirl and Spin and spin and spin where do you spin Woohoo go legs go legs go legs go legs Ready sit Is it pretty both Paws twirl go legs sit Pretty both Paws can you do both paws

Spin whoa can you spin good go legs and Down Down Cross down switch ready go get it get it So I'm re-engaging him when he slows Down by moving the Frisbee like this and Getting him more excited now if I hadn't Worked on multiple behaviors before a Treat this is going to really frustrate A dog working for a toy so that's why I Suggest working for multiple behaviors And really building those behaviors Strong before using a toy ready one a Two a three tour uh spin spin one two Three spin one two three spin ready go Legs And catch it this is my boy Halo he's Three and he used to be slow and steady When he was a little pup because I Worked on uh duration without Frustration with the treats and here he Is at three and you can see I can get Him really fast if I want to and he's Not going to get over excited he's just Fast with uh Precision woo Well good so I can use a toy as a lure I Can turn around and I get that really Nice behavior of him bringing it back And dropping it catch it whoo bring drop Do you see how fast that is that's why You want to work on those behaviors Of the reinforcement Delivery drop so I Have quite a few get it where I let them Get it like that drop twirl get it drop

Spin get it drop go legs get it drop go Around Go around get it drop go Circle get it Good drop and he's not gonna bite my Hand because we worked on it Did you trip drop and we can use the toy To train this is a game that I use to Build speed and reinforcement without Frustration ready twirl get it drop spin Get it drop twirl get it drop go legs Get it drop go round get it drop go Circle get it boom drop Drop and then I proof the get it by not Saying it yet so it's like as Simon Says Get it good drop Get it drop Get it drop twirl get it oh that made Everyone excited because that's the game They play drop Ready this is for wish whoo we should go Crazy crazy crazy crazy crazy crazy wait Unwind unwind unwind unwind unwind Unwind wait Woohoo wish and Halo here are actually The world record holders for the most Tricks done in 60 seconds because They're so fast are you ready both pause Left turn go go around go around watch Out cloudy watch out cloudy Can you wave can you wave yeah Well see you later guys Hello everyone this is Kiko pups tip of The day for today in my previous tip of The day someone had commented how do you

Train a dog to drop when they're tugging Reliably I already have videos on how to Train this using food but I'm going to Show you how to train it using two toys So you want to make sure that you have Two toys that the dog values equally or You want to have an extra valuable toy In case the dog doesn't want to drop Either of the toys but you want to work When the dog is not too excited and You've already worked I suggest you've Already worked on training the drop Initially using a food some very high Value food that's more valuable than the Toy you're using so you're going to use Low value toys that the dog isn't super Excited about blissy ready and then cure Your dog to get it good drop so you're Going to say drop and then flap the Other toy around like this Until the dog gets it now I'm going to Say drop and then get it So while he's tugging I'm going to say Drop and flap this one and then I'm Going to say Get it good job if your dog Is too excited they're going to want to Jump for the toy Well they might not but some dogs might Drop Get it good So basically when I say drop before I Then flap the toy which is also making Him get the toy It's going to teach him that drop is

Something exciting and fun which means Which he gets to get this other toy and If he doesn't drop the toy when I do it I can just let go of that toy at first Get it So while I'm tugging like this and then I say drop I can make this toy then do that same Thing Drop good get it Bliss get it Drop wish get it Drop Halo here Halo wants a different One drop Halo get it get it Halo good Drop so I'm gonna reinforce him with This one because this is the one he Really wanted and he played with the one That he didn't really want so ready Halo Go around Wish wave Wishy wait this is for Halo Halo go Round Whew Okay wish get it Drop Halo uh Bliss get it look at my Dog's name strong Drop Halo come drop Halo get it yeah drop This is for Halo go get oh now he wants This one Bring Wishy Okay now I'm gonna say Um come over here Wait this is gonna be for Bliss and wish

So Bliss get it wish Get it pull Good job wish drop Will she drop come Good job was she here Let's try that again that was slow Bliss get it we should get it wish drop Come Good so you can see you can get quite a Nice drop Which is a good emergency Behavior if You have a dog that gets over aroused With playing tug or maybe they guard Toys let's get it wish get it pull Pull the puppy pull the puppy I'm gonna give it to um Bliss here And wish oh Swiss drop blissy drop good Bliss get it and so when I'm teaching Bliss to initially drop it while he's Playing with wish Um I'm going to be holding the toy Because I'm not sure if he'll do it do You want to play this tuggy game And I just wants to run in circles get It let's get it Good Bliss drop good get it pull around Pull around pull around if you have a Dog that when you hold the toy out they Take it kind of tentatively or they grab It not as forcefully as you want instead Of sticking it out in their face like That you want to move backwards with the Toy so the motion is away and that's Going to help them build confidence with

Wanting to get it so I'm going to say Get it and move back where it's dropped Because if I say Get It Drop get it or Even hold it still get it he's kind of Like Get It Drop where if I say Get It Drop get it yes drop Get it good and I can say drop go around Get it and move it away from him drop go Around get it Drop so I'm taking a step to the left Go around get it Good that's nice and then go around go Circle Get it good that's a nice grip that's a Nice grip yeah that's a nice grip woo Ready woohoo Drop Up nice Drop drop Wait get it yeah rub Get it oh good boy drop Candy good job so these are two new toys That I just bought today that's why they Look nice in you and I'm working on the Drop and get it with these two new toys And he's doing really well so I'm Actually letting him tug for longer Kitty so tugging for longer and being Excited can increase the likelihood of The dog not wanting to let go so you Might just drop the toy and say drop Get it good boy and then make a big deal About the dog dropping it for this one Bring so I can play tug with this one

Then say drop and then throw the other One to get him used to the concept of Dropping it dropping when he's pulling To get a toy and then I can just fade Out the extra toy Go Get It Go Get It Good boy oh he didn't see it Good boy okay now I'm gonna try with Just one toy drop Here we go get it yeah Drop means I'm going to throw it So if your dog really hates fetch don't Say drop and then throw it say drop and Then get it Because especially if it's a hot day Because they're going to be like oh no Drop means I have to run over there and Get it Drop good go Ready Drop Catch it Drop Catch it Drop Catch it drop catch it drop Catch it good boy drop twirl Kitty today I'm going to be talking about creating a Behavior sequence that your dog Memorizes not only to show off your Dog's cool behaviors or tricks but also So that you can teach your dog to work On a variable ratio of reinforcement Without frustration so today I'm going To be working with bliss here my

Nine-month-old border collie and Teaching him acute sequence so the Important thing is choosing behaviors That are strong and that the dog can do Reliably if you have a new a young dog That doesn't have any reliable behaviors You can chew that aren't that strong you Can choose behaviors that are the best That you've worked on the most and then You can revert to using the lure while Going through the behaviors and also Using a high rate of reinforcement so You might give a treat for every single Behavior that you ask for so to begin With I'm going to warm Bliss up with Playing with the toy list ready get it Good boy Drop good Ready go around get it yeah good boy Awesome drop good okay he's warmed up so Now I'm gonna go over the behaviors that Are going to be in the sequence one is Going to be sitting sit Good get it good job So I'm just testing to see if the Behaviors are nice and reliable before I Try to make them into a chain so now He's sitting he's looking at a bird That's landed right off camera are you Ready The next one is pause up on my leg both Paws good get it and as you noticed I Have a marker that means you're doing it Right which is good like that and then I

Say get it because what I don't want Especially if you have your dog on your Back or on your body that when you say Get it they're gonna like take off of Your body and scratch you up or it can Create unreliable behaviors that are a Little messy so I like to with Stationary behaviors Mark the behavior And then with a marker that means stay There and then say Get it so it's not That he's got his paws on my leg and Then I say get it and he then pushes off Of me to get the toy why are you sitting Like that okay So we have the sit we have the pause on My leg and then we have a twirl Behavior And a spin And I could do these without luring but You might want to start with luring just So that it's fun and exciting for your Dog if you if they've never done a Behavior sequence before drop Okay The other thing that we're going to do Is have him go through my legs Good okay so now we're going to put the Behaviors together so I'm going to ask Him to sit Good and then both Paws get it good job And then after he does both Paws I'm Going to ask him to twirl drop Good Twirl good get it and why am I letting Go of the toy drop to ask him to drop is

Because he doesn't have a reliable drop When I'm tugging and I feel like using a Toy to train this Behavior are you ready Go legs Get it good so after he Twirls he goes Through my legs then I ask him to sit Drop Sit Both paws and then spin get it woohoo Drop And then go through my legs again good Job get it Drop awesome now if I wanted to teach Him to drop while tugging that would be Its own tutorial I mean its own trading Session of itself I'm not going to work On that and work on this sequence at the Same time that's too uh too much to do In one training session so I'm making it Easy and just asking him to drop when I When I'm not holding it so we begin in The sitting position and he's starting To we actually worked on this a little Bit already but he's starting to Anticipate what I want next So I'm gonna wait until he's sitting Again and then wait till he does It On Cue so I'm going to say both paws Good twirl go legs Sit Both Paws spin And that was hard for him spin Go legs Get it so now I know that it's hard for

Him to spin on this side or maybe I just Asked for too much so what I'm going to Do is start him here while he's got his Paws up on my leg drop and then ask him To spin Sit Pause up Ready and I'm going to use a nice luring Gesture ready pause up Spin good get it nice Drop good Spin get it good boy So they're uh doing these sequences also Um brings to light parts of your Training that need work and it's not That he's saying no or that he's stupid But not to call a dog stupid there's no Stupid dogs or stupid people drop it's Just a lack of information So um if I say spin and he doesn't spin It's just that this cue isn't working so I can say spin and then use the lure to Get him to spin ready Bing Go ahead get it Now Halo is going to show off a little Bit sit ready both pause twirl go legs Sit both Paws spin go legs sit both Paws Twirl go legs sit both Paws spin go legs Good and now the other sequence he has Is twirl twirl turn back through spin Spin flip back through get it so if you Were going to make a behavior chain with Two sequences together you can always

Practice them in different orders but Get them used to the transitions between Hello between sequences so so that Um so that they don't realize that the Sequences are going to go on and on Forever and that there are these fun Short things and they never know what Might happen next rather than oh no Emily's going to do four minutes of Tricks with me and I'm not gonna get a Toy so that's what keeps it fun and gets Them wanting to do more behaviors for Less for Less primary or secondary Reinforcers you know the behaviors Themselves become fun for the dogs to do So they even get up from their stay To want to do more And I'm going to reinforce him ready get That there you go Wish free Can you not not not stand up walk on Walk on go welcome welcome wait is it Pretty Stand up Good girl Ready wish Thank you so much for watching if you'd Like to support my work don't forget to Like comment and subscribe to my channel You can also become a supporting member Of Channel Kiko pup by clicking the join Button see you later are you ready Both Paws twirl go legs Sit

Good both Paws ready both of them yeah Spin get it good boy good boy hello Everyone I'm going to be training my Little puppy Cloud here he's a terrier Mix and he's uh about 13 weeks old today Um I pre-measured the amount of food He's going to be eating and today I'm Going to be doing a real-time training Session where we're working on the Concept of doing multiple behaviors Before a treat so I am going to warm him Up a little bit because I haven't worked On the Platforms in a while but Sometimes I feel like and this is just My own opinion when you ask for multiple Behaviors in the same area they're more Likely to think that they got the Behavior wrong because that's usually How you train something and if they make An error they're right where they are so Instead I'm going to cue him to go to a Different area to do the different Behaviors so I can ask for multiple Behaviors and then he he's seeing that He's done the behavior right he gets to Go to the next platform okay so he has These two blue platforms which are just Human exercise mats that I have fixed Velcro strips to so they wouldn't slip On the carpet so to begin with I'm going To warm up by giving him a treat for Every Behavior so I'm going to cue him To go platform Good boy and then cue him to sit

Good Free Good job so for him free means come to Me Go platform Good Down Good boy And now for pause up Pause up Three Good boy Oops I dropped a piece Good job Pause up Let's see if I can get him to turn right Next to the couch good job good boy okay So now we're gonna slip in a a time Where he does two behaviors before a Treat and I like to give them a verbal Praise which is good which means you did It right but the click is the is the Marker that means a treat comes after Every click so you might not agree with That type of training you can if you Don't like to use verbal praise you can Just be quiet so you can I'll do an Example of that first where I cue him I'm going to get two behaviors so I'm Going to ask him to go platform And sit it's actually quite a few Behaviors but two position changes free Go platform down So he's done two behaviors for the treat

Like that a night Mark and I reinforce Or I could say good and reinforce a Different marker that he knows so what I Like to do Myself is I'll just give some verbal Praise as well because I don't do Obedience where you have to be quiet the Whole time so I like to have my verbal Praise also be in there to tell the dog They're doing it right are you ready Free Good go platform oh I got the cue wrong It's pause up but uh the visual cue Pause up is easy for him so I'm going to Get him to do a little bit of turning Good and then I'm going to cue him to go Here and sit And Um I'm talking to you but I'm giving him Visual cues as well so that's why he's Doing the behaviors Crowd free Go platform Down so now I'm going to Mark him again So that it doesn't always get harder and Harder so basically you're training on An average so if you want him to do an Average of three behaviors before a Treat then you're not going to do three Behaviors and four behaviors before a Treat you're going to do three behaviors And then I like to make it drastically Lower the next time so one behavior Before a treat so now I'm going to ask

For three behaviors and And then Mark and reinforce and the Wonderful thing about little dogs I'm Being sarcastic is they can't eat very Much food so I only have this much left To work with in this training session So I'm going to feed him good job And then I'm going to um Cue him to do three behaviors before a Treat I I wanted to Tell you though that I'm sitting here Stuffing food in his face because I made Him do quite a long duration down while I was talking so you have to consider That what is a behavior a behavior is One Behavior one verbal cue no um A long duration down might be easy for One dog and seem like uh you know if You're working on an average of Behaviors it might seem like one Behavior but if it's something super Hard for the dog then I would definitely Reinforce that behavior so maybe Spinning or sitting is easy and Downing Is hard then you might always try to Reinforce the down and then work on Asking for a down Um Once that behavior is stronger then you Can start putting that behavior on an Average so you really want to only use Behaviors I forgot to mention this at The beginning you should you should

Really only play this game where you're Moving on to an average rate of Reinforcement with behaviors that are Super strong for the dog so I picked Ones that are really good for him and Also he as you can see he really enjoys Going to the platform Okay here we go so I'm going to ask him To down Good Go platform over here Free Good job sit he was thinking for a Little bit Pause up Good and we're gonna turn Turn Good boy awesome and now we're going to Jump up here Sit And I'm going to give him a treat Because we did three And then I'm going to cue him to wave Good boy and during this training Process where you're asking for more Behaviors before it treats or the Situation is different you can reinforce Behaviors that aren't as pretty as you Would want them to be Normally so if you add criteria you Expect the behavior to look a little bit Less A good Then you would want it to look hey pupsy

Did you see when I um when I asked him To go over there I almost aborted the Training session and and went back to The one to one because he he refused he Was like no that seems dumb that's not a Good idea I haven't got my treat yet for Being over here but then he's learning Oh if I go there I'll get the cheat wave Good boy Now I'm going to make it super easy Go platform He's not done eating oh he's got to Think he's got to think he said I've Done more tricks than I than I got Treats Good boy So I'm going to give him multiple treats Here Just to make it fun And then make this platform easy again So he doesn't get superstitious it was This one that was super hard free Good and now I'm gonna have him do A little bit of turning and then we're Done with the treats Good boy Good boy So here's the remainder of the treats I'm gonna let him eat the treats like That and then I'm going to say all done See they're all gone you did good and Now we're gonna go out to the bathroom Thank you so much for watching if you'd Like to support my work don't forget to

Like comment and subscribe to my Channel Today we're going to be working on Building your dog's confidence and Trust In this specific scenario it's epics Confidence with weaving my legs she does Have luxating patellas but also I made The mistake of tripping while we were Doing leg weaving and since then she's Lost trust and confidence with weaving My legs and she's finding it aversive When I ask for doing it she doesn't want To do it because she is worried that She's going to get hurt because I'm very Big and now I am untrustable with my Movement because I tripped so the the Key with if your dog has started to not Want to do a certain trick or behavior Is first go to the vet and check out to See there's like nothing wrong if you Suspect that but the next step is Changing the picture so I'm going to Make the picture look completely Different I'm sitting down my legs are Very stationary and reliable and she's Very comfortable around my legs see I Could work first work on come being Comfortable about around my legs if the Dog was still really scared of the Whatever it is like the legs you could Try a different object so maybe two Cones and work on that first build the Cue the trust and confidence and then Switch it back to the old picture if you Wanted to do that so with her I'm going

To use a high rate of reinforcement so I'm going to give her a treat actually She goes in the opposite direction I'm Going to give her a treat here and then Over here I call it Hansel and Gretel so They're just doing the behavior looking For the next treat and then do this a Couple of times where the dog is just Getting really confident with going Between your legs like that to find the Treats and then you make the treats Further and further apart and see if the Dog might think to offer the behavior Looking for the next treat so I can also Make it more likely to happen by having My hand Put a treat here Like that and have my hand disappear Under my leg so she might think to go Under there and I can mark it Good and then feed her in the direction That she's going so that I'm creating This nice flowing movement Then once I've gotten to the point where She is offering the behavior really Really reliably which she's not yet I Can then go back to adding a cue and I Could add a completely different cue so The last q that I had was legs and legs Meant uh recently to not go through my Legs and be scared that I'm going to Stamp on her so I'm going to call it Weave So I can say go weave

And then lure her go weave good Go weave Good girl And then go back to making it super easy Where she's offering again Because I wouldn't really add the Q here Yet but that would be the next step Because she's not quite yet confidently Uh going through my legs And really really finding it reinforcing Girl So I might get three leg weaves that she Offers where she goes like through here And then through here Three times before I then add the cue to Make it really really reinforcing but I Did also drop some crumbs so that's what Why she's hesitating But usually if your dog is really Interested in in working for the treats That you have and they're tiny tiny Crumbs it just tells you that they're Not completely confident about how to Earn the treat They rather look for teeny weeny little Crumbs than do the behavior so it is Information to me So we're just going to be working on This the next week I hope you enjoyed This tip of the day and if you would Like to support my work don't forget to Like and leave a comment because that Means more people will see the video and It's highly reinforcing for me when that

Happens today I'm going to be doing Another tip on confidence building with Objects so epic here is very confident With certain objects but if I uh Introduce a new balance work equipment Object she can be fearful at first of Wanting to get onto it she does have Luxating patellas like my little boy Cloud and so that could be an issue a Fear of being unbalanced but I've chosen Safe equipment that's not going to make Her wobble too much so you want to make Sure that your equipment isn't too Wobbly because the more wobbly like if You have something inflatable you want To make sure it's inflated all the way And I suggest playing this game for First with objects that are not non-slip And solid so not even Hollow so maybe Just a pla like a a board or something Like that okay so the first tip that I'm Going to give you guys is teaching uh go To the mat and I'm not going to show you How to train that you can look in the Description below for how to do that but What you do is you build the mat to be a Secondary reinforcer to the dog and She's shivering because it's a little Cold here inside the house it's like 70. Go get it But the great thing about a mat is if You have a dog that's a little nervous Around your clumbering huge giant body If you have a small dog or a dog that

You've recently adopted and doesn't Quite trust your movements you can free Teach your dog to go to the mat Good and then when you introduce the Balance equipment they can go and Target It while you're not looming right over Them and that can help some dogs Increase their confidence now if you Have a dog that if they don't mind you Particularly this isn't so useful Teaching them to work at a distance but Using the mat as a secondary force or Somewhere they love to go and putting it On the equipment now you might see Kiko Wandering around in my videos in the Next few videos because she's now 17 so She'll be wandering around in the video So try not to get distracted by her But this is what happens if you get to Be 17 you get to do what you want as a Dog hey Kiko and she loves ear scratches Okay I've actually worked on this a Little bit but as you'll see if I tell Epic to go pause up go pause up Oh she's gonna do it Go pause up Go pause up She doesn't want to you know she will Initially but it's she doesn't Particularly like it so what I'm going To do free is put her mat I can't get Her off the mat onto this at first like This Good and you can see that she's very Comfortable now with the feeling of

Sitting on the wobble disc on her mat so I can Mark and reinforce good free if You had a dog that was worried about Being near you You can say go to your mat Good And if they're worried about you leaning In to feed them you could then release Them free To get their treat so you can practice Having the dog walk over the object from Different directions and really start to Get very comfortable with it before Removing the mat and seeing if the dog Can go onto the object without the mat So you can do it in small approximations Too so I could just move the mat a Little bit like that And she probably is going to Target the Mat and not the purple part Good She jumped over it Good job and if your dog is comfortable You can sprinkle treats on the object to Eat off the object like that now I don't Suggest Um Sitting next to your dog And if they're really worried about Something putting a treat there on the Object and trying to encourage them to Go eat it if they're really worried one Thing you can do instead is leave the Object and put medium value treats

Around the object and sprinkle them on The object and then the dog can take Their time on their own to build the Confidence to go and get those treats Off the object and if they want to back Away or try again later they're welcome But if you're sitting there trying to Pressure them into getting the treat and If the treat is really high value they Can be conflicted so I would use low Value treats or medium value treats for An exercise like that you know you don't Really want to put the dog into a Conflict of oh I really want that treat But I'm really scared of that Hey popsy okay so you can see she's got Her feet on the Feet on it I'm just gonna put the matte Half on it And see if she might um Target the actual purple part yeah Awesome I'll do that from the from the Side so you can see that Good girl Some She's like I prefer this this is my Black matte You've trained me to be on here Okay Epic free I'm going to move the mat away Completely so she can't see it and then Say go to your mat Or go platform which is going to be the Final cue

She's like what about if I just have two Feet on it For epic here I can also try having the Object near me to see if that makes her More likely to want to get onto it than At a distance so I'm going to feed her Away from it and then see if she might Go on now if your dog is going on to a Mat or a dog bed that they're very Comfortable with what I like to say is You reinforce you Mark when the dog gets Onto the mat and you feed the dog for Being on the mat so that being on the Mat is where they receive reinforcement However if they're really nervous to be On the mat they can be worried about Eating the treat while they're on the Object and they don't really you know They're you know conflicted they want to Enjoy that treat but they're like I have To balance while I'm eating it what if I Slip while I'm eating the treat so you Mark and then say go get it and then They can enjoy the treat further away And then when they really get confident With the object you can feed them while They're on the object Okay free She's jumping over it There we go Good job Now I'm just putting the treat around The corner so it's the uh most Convenient Pathway to get the treat

So she's if she starts going around like This it tells me she doesn't really like Going on to the object I left some crumbs on there Good job Good There she jumped over it So if she's comfortable getting the Treats on the object I can sprinkle them To prevent her jumping I make her less Likely to I sprinkled quite a lot of treats there Good job I'm going to turn it Do you see the oh I guess you can't Really see but she's leaving about back Legs behind and she was kind of lifting Her paw instead of putting it on the Object she was reaching without touching It with her paw so we still need to work On this this is the um second training Session we had with this I tried it I Tried using this um I guess it was two Months ago and we did a little bit of Training and then it sat in the corner Gathering dust and I've been using the Platforms she likes to do other Behaviors but I thought it would be fun To show you Um the uh what to do if your dog lacks Confidence with a certain prop or object That you want to use for training or Physical fitness or physical therapy Hello everyone in this video I'm going To be training my little puppy Cloud

Who's 11 weeks old a terrier mix and I've already pre-measured out his treats To use he's already doing what I wanted Him to do Um And in this video I'm going to be Talking about the magicalness and Amazingness and extreme intelligence of Little puppies here's footage of my Border collie halo two days after I got Him at eight weeks old as you can see he Looks like a puppy genius Good Go back Good boy Oh my goodness a lot of times people Think that the puppy is stubborn or just Doesn't want to learn or uh they're They're not smart but the thing is is That if you go and train them to do the Same behavior repetitively like sitting Down and come and stay and all that what Can happen is that the puppy can start To predict that when you have treats in A clicker it's all about a sit and then It's really hard to get other behaviors So what I like to teach puppies is the Concept of learning new behaviors and The concept of offering among other Things so um I will link a video on how To teach your puppy to follow a lure Where they're thinking and not just Trying to eat the treat out of your hand To learn behaviors but also

Um I like to teach the puppies offering So offering Behavior like four feet up On a platform first taught by luring Fruit On a platform this is just a bowl upside Down that's non-slip but you could use a Book with a non-slip cover so pause up On the platform is a great Behavior to Teach your puppy to offer Going through a tunnel Good job so that's a fun game to teach Your puppy to offer He said I would like to stay in the Tunnel like a kennel going in a crate or A bed is a wonderful behavior and Teaching the cue to touch your hand or Touch some object Oh Um another one is pawing if you have a Small dog it's not such a big deal to Train it first I really like teaching Footwork because I do can I freestyle And I really obsess over nail trimming So I've trained my dogs to um paw at a Target or my hand but you don't really Want to train that first because you Might get a dog that Paws you for really Big dogs I would say wait and train the Pawing later and work on just picking up The feet of the puppy and handling them Because what can happen is that you get A lot of offering pawing and with a big Dog that grows quickly it's not the best Behavior to teach them to offer before

They understand the concept of um only Doing behaviors On Cue he's wanting to Do the tunnel and the and the Um two feet up okay so Um so that's offering and luring what I Like to do is work on the different Positions which is um really good for Their body the goal of this exercise is Teaching the puppy to follow a lure to Do different behaviors as well as how to Move their body You'll find that as your puppy grows You'll have to retrain this because They'll be in a completely different Body I have a video tutorial on how to Train the position changes as behaviors That you then add cues to and I'll link That in the description below using the Props is a great way to teach dogs to do Different behaviors without having to Face you or face the treats but another Thing to keep in mind is uh behaviors Where the dog is moving around you That's going to be very helpful for Teaching the dog the concept of they Don't have to be right in front of you To do the behavior so another great Exercises leg weaving because not only Are they learning this but they're also Learning to do something with duration So at first you start off with a high Rate of reinforcement reinforcing the Dog for going through your legs like This

Good and then you can start to increase How many how many leg weaves they do Good Teaching your puppy to spin to the left And to the right is also a great Behavior but you want to make sure that The movement is slow and um and smooth So they're not bouncing or spinning on Their front feet but they're moving Nicely in a circle like that so if They're not And they're jumping around and spinning You can first work on the um going Around the object first so getting that Nice smooth movement so they're Practicing moving to the left and the Right like that it's a really good Exercise for them and a great uh for Teaching them to follow a lore good job Here's footage of the first time the Cloud offered going around the plant And the first time that he offered going Through a tunnel you can really see his Brain working Good [Music] Boy Thank you so much for watching if you'd Like to support my work don't forget to Like comment and subscribe to my channel You can also become a supporting member Of Channel Kiko pup by clicking the join Button see you later in this video I'm Going to show you how to add a verbal

Cue to a behavior and give you some tips For adding a verbal cue where you say a Word that means to do the behavior Instead of using a hand signal to do the Behavior so actually I haven't really Worked on offering a down from a stand Oh good job of course he's going to Prove me wrong but he he is mainly I Have practiced having him down from a Sit Offering it on just a verbal cue while I'm sitting down on the ground I have Actually been asking him to down from a Stand but while I'm standing up and he's Just standing I haven't got him to down From a stand so I'm going to use that as An example and also spinning Clockwise which I call spin he's already Started to offer spinning in the Opposite direction but I haven't yet Properly worked on getting him to spin Clockwise you ready okay so we'll begin With down so What I'm just going to do is warm him up By luring him into the position Good marking and reinforcing multiple Times Because it's a duration behavior and Then saying free And mocking him for getting up And I'm also going to Mark him and feed Him for staying standing because the Problem was he kept sitting so he always Learned uh down from a sit but stand he

Didn't understand because he was always Sitting when I asked for Dan okay so now I'm going to say down and if he doesn't Think to lie down I'm going to lure him Into the position and I'm not going to Worry about how sloppy it looks right Now free I can work on him moving nicely And smoothly into the position by doing Training games where I'm just luring him Like this and getting that nice smooth Position changes but when I first Started teaching offering down from a Stand where I'm not helping him out I'm Going to take anything any thinking to Go down so if he wants to flop his legs Around or if he has to step around That's fine I'm going to mark his Offering even though it doesn't look Precise and then I can always go back And lure him to get that nice Precision If that's something that you're Interested in I am you know interested In it for tricks but also see how he's Flipped his hips like that if he always If your dog always lays down in an Asymmetrical kind of way especially if They're a puppy and you're marking and Reinforcing it free you might be Inadvertently building muscles in Equally on their sides so if you're Going to ask your dog to sit free With offering then what you can do is if They're sitting crooked as you go to Feed them the treat you can straighten

Them up a bit so if they were rolled Back sitting on their butt bone you can Lure them forwards so they're actively Sitting rather than you know just Letting their legs flop so I like to Feed like that to get that nice sit free And then also continue to lure the dog Into the sitting position and you can Use like a slightly uneven surface to Um like a fitness pad or doing these Exercises on the couch to get your dog Looking nice and symmetrical and using All their muscles properly rather than What's going to happen when you ask them To do something when they're first Learning to offer so sorry for the long Tip so now I'm going to ask him to down And if he doesn't Lure him And because I've been talking a lot He forgot Whoops so I'm going to go back to Lowering down So basically I'm going to save the cue Down and then if he doesn't I'm going to Wait a little bit and then lure him so The word down predicts the visual signal So what you're doing free is teaching The dog that the word that you say Predicts the cue and then after Repetition it becomes the Q down Good so there he sat and then laid down Which is fine uh to click him offering It but I can always go back free and cue

Down and then lower him with the Movement that I want uh for going from Stand to down free good Down He's like how about sit another thing I Can do is reset him and then say down And then lure him into the down position Another technique you can use if your Dog isn't offering yet free is changing Your clue very slightly to be less and Less obvious to make it easier for the Dog to offer later because if you're Luring your dog like this The treat is right near their nose the Whole time so that's part of the cue Free so if you try to just stand up like This and see if your dog might think to Lay down they might not so what you can Do instead to make it easier for the dog To understand is make uh it's so that The dog can operate even though the Treat is further away from them so you Can also use no treat And teach them to lay down with with no Treat free So he's seen there's no treat we were Working on Paw stuff earlier And he's laying down even though there's No treat and he's getting marked and Reinforced so he's starting to Understand that concept free and then I Can start to hold the treat further and Further away so I've got him laying down without having

To put my hand here I can put my hand Here free this is how I originally Trained him Is First I lured down like that good Marked and reinforced multiple times Free always remember to release him and Then held my hand here And just kept cueing the same movement From higher up free and now I'm going to Hold my hand even higher There you go here on my leg And just keep doing that little gesture Good job and then Mark can reinforce When he went down free so that would be The first step getting your dog to offer With a little bit more distance from the Food because sometimes if the food is Way up here it's a completely different Picture and they're never going to think To lay down and they might get Frustrated give up bark at you whine or Just Um do a hundred other behaviors and that Can be very frustrating for the trainer As well so it's basically breaking the Steps up smaller so here my hand is here And he's going into the down position Free I'm gonna do it again Good boy and now I'm going to say my cue Free Awesome ready So I'm going to say down and if he

Doesn't I can do this little hand Gesture on the side of my body Free good job Down oh I did the hand gesture at the Same time Out of habit free I like to give my dogs little signals so Unless you're practicing for obedience The more information you give to your Dog the better so if you're if you just Have a pet dog you have guests over Instead of standing here saying down you Could just say down and give the hand Signal as well to really be as um to to Make the communication as clear as Possible free for your dog so again Unless you're doing obedience where You're not allowed to use a verbal cue And a visual cue at the same time There's no harm in doing it unless you Want to impress people as a dog trainer Okay now we're going to learn to um Spin clockwise if you're going to be Teaching your dog to offer different Behaviors on only a verbal cue in the Same training session it can be a little Bit confusing if you stay in the same Area because what you've been doing has Been standing still and that cues the Dog to do the behavior that they were Offering before so because we've been Working on the down here if I stand Still he might think to that it's to lay Down because he hasn't learned the new

Verbal cue yet where it's like a green Light and here's the word and it makes Him do the behavior Um Uh where it's created a stimulus Response Association uh for the dog so What I suggest is if you're going to Work on multiple tricks or behaviors Where they're offering after just a Verbal cue do them in different Locations of your house so here I might Work on the down he already knows what I'm going to ask for next and here I Want to teach him actually to spin in The opposite direction We worked on spinning uh anti-clockwise With just offering but we haven't worked On the other direction so I am going to Do it here free but you can see he's Already offering it down so it would be Smarter for my training to do it Somewhere else so here we go I'm going To refresh him with the behavior so I'm Going to cue him spin And show him the hand signal and I'm Luring him too so I'm luring him in a Big circle like that so if you were Going to first work on the dog Um following less and less of an obvious Gesture you're just going to make this Circle smaller Have no treats in your hand do a nice Big gesture he said where'd the tree go Ready

There we go He was a little confused I have not Actually done that before with him I usually just make the cheek go further And further away There we go good job Make the treat a little bit higher up And the circle smaller So I'm just going to be able to do a Little finger flick before he can turn As you can see If I do a little finger flick now he Doesn't know what that means so this Means nothing to him I have to do a Bigger gesture and I'm leaning my body Forward as I'm doing it to get him to Spin like that so what I'm doing is Slowly in approximations Making my gesture smaller for the for The same behavior now you don't have to Make it harder and harder so if you Actually did respond to a little finger Flick like that He's like are you throwing a treat What's going on here If he did respond like to a little teeny Finger flick then the next Trial I can do a really easy one so that What happens is he doesn't then try Something else and get frustrated or Just think it's really hard because He's just trying to figure out what you Want so you're giving him a clue again After he offers

Now I'm going to say spin And then lure him good job Ready spin Good and if they do half the behavior You can finish it off by lowering them So even if he turns his head just a Little bit to the right Spin He's like I really want to go the other Direction see Spin Yes another thing I can do is because I Taught Um spin in front of me I mean twirl the Other direction In front of me like this I could teach Spin initially on my right side So that um it looks different so he's Not think more likely to think about Doing the other Behavior which is twirl Ready spin Good Now I'm gonna just uh be quiet and work On the cue spin where I'm not blabbing In between ready Spin Spin Spin Yes good job Spin Good boy there we go I'm making my gestures less and less Spin See if you might think yeah there we go

Good boy Ready spin He really wants to go the other way Spin Good boy and we'll stop there because uh I'm very pleased with what I have got You want to do high five good job and You can end on something fun If you want Here's footage from much later in the Day when I did a 40 second training Session with him and you can see he Really catches on to the verbal pew It's been good boy In good job Spin Well done good boy sit Good Wait good Bye Good Good job I'm going to be talking about Duration in behaviors now cloud is Pretty good at a very long down position But I've just taught him to stand and Now before I go too many days or even Weeks teaching him to stand and he only Stands for a few seconds I want to teach Him the concept that he has to stay in The position until either I ask for a Different position or I release him with A release cue such as free or let's go Or okay or whatever okay so The reason I don't like to choose okay

Is I say it all the time so I laughed at Myself my release cue is free or get it Free means come to me get it means get Whatever treat there is on the ground so I can say get it and then throw the Treat like that and he knows he can get Up so if you're having a dog that's Really struggling uh with the concept of Staying if you've done a lot of leaving Proof it for leave it leaving stuff hi Hey thanks for doing the bout to the Stand that we were doing previously in The tip of the day so you can see why I Need to work on the duration Okay so I'm going to show you a quick Little game I actually have a tutorial On it but it's really building the Concept that the behavior ends and then Something happens at the end sometimes With uh treat training people train the Behavior in a training session but then In real life maybe they're in the Kitchen they want to give their dog a Treat so they say sit and then they give Their dog a treat and then they walk Away and then the dog is sitting there And then at some point the dog thinks oh I don't have to sit anymore I'll get up So it's really important for clarity That there is a very very precise ending That they're waiting for so the release Queue okay you've had a lot of treats Now free so what I'm going to do your Dog needs to know a leave it for this

Exercise I am also going to utilize the End of the carpet so I'm actually going To turn my back to you so that he knows To stay on this carpet where we've Worked on the exercise before Okay so I'm just going to get them Straight And usually I have my dog right in front Of me but I'm going to try and do it at An angle so you can you can see them Better but I'm going to ask him in the Position that he's best at which is a Down I'm going to say leave it and I'm Going to put these treats down here But you can see he's getting up thinking That he can get them so this is a great Proofing game because duration is Staying in the in the down not just Getting up immediately thinking that This means get up they're waiting for The release cue there's stimulus control On the release queue meaning other cues Don't mean get up so I actually made a Video on this about proofing for Distractions so you're first going to Click as the distraction happens and Then go to pretend to put a treat down If your dog doesn't know leave it which He I guess doesn't know in this Situation so I'm going to say leave it And then put the And then put the treat down on the Ground Good

Leave it Leave it Awesome Leave it Good boy Leave it Awesome Leave it Good job Leave it So when he's very confident with leaving It if you have a dog that's really good At leave it you might have to work on The cue of get it which means they can Actually have whatever it was so Basically it's a very very simple game And a great way to learn the concept of Your inner position you're waiting and Then you get a cue Where you can get up so by having Something they really want and they're Focused on this one thing they're going To be more likely to understand in my Opinion the concept of stay I can't get That thing until I hear that cue now you Don't want to do this for hours and Hours it's just to initially train that Concept of stay and get it so I'd only Do this for two to three seconds and Then when the dog is understanding the Concept of um of the duration you can Add I mean of getting up only on the Queue then you can add duration and then Um there's not going to be like a treat

Tempting them they're just going to be Laying and you can Mark and reinforce Because you can see it's way easier for Him when there's not something that he Really wants right in front of him but Those games are really going to help With build the concept of the behavior Ends at some specific point that I'm Waiting for free Good boy so if he doesn't get up when I Say free I'm going to lure him or say Get it and then throw the treat like That down Leave it Leave it Good Good Job Cloud Good job you can see it's getting a Little frustrated Because he's like moving around looking At the treats wagging his tail so I'm Get it and I can use lower value treats Next time I stupidly only have the same Value for giving him some and also on The ground so if you can use a lower Distraction as the I mean as the thing That they're released to like kibble and Then he gets a higher value treats like A piece of hot dog that can be very Helpful Leave it Good boy

Get it good job okay so now I actually Thought I wouldn't have to do that That's where I should really end it and Work on the down with the distraction But instead I'm going to show you how to Work on the stand with that distraction Up Good by doing this And I think it helps the concept having The dog on the edge of a platform or a Carpet at first but you want to quickly Move on to where they're free somewhere Else like right in the middle of the Carpet as well so that they don't only Think staying is about being on the edge Of a carpet Leave it Good boy Ready Up nice good Good Good Good Up Nice Good whoops That made him move his foot a little bit Ready up good Good Down Down Good leave it Good Are you ready Up

Good boy nice very nice Very nice That's so good you figured it out That's right Oh it's like I'm gonna lay down now down Good boy thank you so much for watching If you'd like to support my work don't Forget to like comment and subscribe to My channel you can also become a Supporting member of Channel kigopop by Clicking the join button and that gains You access to a members video a month That you can find in the community Section of my YouTube channel see you Later Somebody recently commented they would Like a tip of the day on working with Distractions I suggest beginning in a Room of no distraction where your dog is Finding your reinforcement the most Reinforcing thing to do teach the Concept of working around distractions And then start to add on them add on That in baby steps if you try and go out Somewhere and work on distractions you Might have the same problem that you Would have if you were working with a Dog with reactivity and something could Go well and then something could go Badly so it's really unpredictable so It's better to build the strength of the Behaviors of your dog listening to you And finding the behaviors you want them To do reinforcing when there's nothing

Around so what's happening is Conditioning the dog is really enjoying The reinforcement so it's going to make The behavior more likely to happen where If they're out and about and Everything's really distracting like You're at a cafe and there's crumbs Everywhere and you're asking them to lie Down they want to eat the crumbs or Something like that It's you can imagine that the dog is not Going to be thinking that laying down With you is the most reinforcing thing To do so you build on it are you ready So Bliss Is my 10 month old Border Collie mix I Got him from a family that lived out on A ranch and he's a mix of uh according To Embark he's a mix of Border Collie 30 Cattle dog and then they say he's got Some German Shepherd and and Um rotten one Rottweiler perhaps in his Mix but you never know okay so let's get Started because he's already been Settled I'm gonna ask him to get up and Then lay down again free Now I'm going to ask him to down Good job So what you first want before you add Distractions is at least five seconds of A behavior if it's a maintained Behavior So um Where the dog stays in position you can Mark and reinforce the dog that way you

Can start adding distractions now I Already have tutorials on adding Distractions and teaching stay behaviors With different types of distractions Like toys and Treats but this is just a Fun little taster video so the very very Basics of adding a distraction is you Choose an environment where the dog can Learn you present the distraction in a As low level as possible that you know The dog's not going to get up like that And you mark so you either say yes or Good or whatever your verbal marker is That means they're going to get a treat Or you clip so I'm holding the treat out I Mark and then I reinforce him So this is the distraction for the Moment but most thoughts get up if you Put a treat down so if I put it down Here he probably would get up thinking I Was giving it to him like I am there but This is a new picture and basically what You're doing is you make it this step so Small that you can put a treat down on The ground if you do this enough and the Dog is not going to get up so you're Marking them for wanting to stay in the Down position when distractions happen So not only are they learning using Appearance conditioning where they're Learning oh I stay in this position I Get food but they're also learning oh When there's food on the ground I love Laying in the down position which is

Classical conditioning so the dog is Having that calm happy response to Seeing something in the environment fall Rather than feeling frustrated about it So he was under a table and a piece of Food fell In front of him like that He's going to stay there and know that It's more reinforcing to stay where he Is good job It's basically brainwashing isn't it you Want a nut I'm gonna not I'm good Okay so now I'm gonna free him free and Then I could even say Get it with this Type of game And then the next step because first You're clicking as the distraction Happens and you can increase how Difficult the distraction is as you're Clicking as the distraction happens but You can also make the same distraction Happen And then add duration And Delay when you Mark so At first I was doing this and it might Have been too much for him at first but You can see it's really easy And then I was doing this So I can delay the clicking And now I can delay the dropping the Treat My my unconscious knew that I should Click as I dropped it with him because

He's never learned this yet but Let's just pretend that we worked on it A little bit and I'm just going to drop The treats now because Um I'm adding the the duration of the Distraction and did you see he shifted a Little I think he was thinking about Getting up I clicked him or I reinforced Him by feeding him Um For staying so he might have been Thinking a little bit but I'm going to Say yes you still are in the down Position so you're getting it and then I'm going to make it easier so I'm going To click every time I drop the treat at First which is what he's like what if I Crawl all the way there and place oh Stretchy games ready So I'm just going to lower him back with The treat ask him to down and then make It easier Another thing you can do is add criteria As to what you want that behavior to Look like so at first Um as the distraction happens he's Looking at it if that's not what you Wanted and you wanted your dog to look At you you could then make the Distraction a little bit easier and Repeat it and then see if your dog might Offer looking at you or You can ask for the attention so I'm Going to do this and then I'm going to

Make my attention noise or say his name If you have a border collie and they Might just enjoy watching your hand do That Good boy when you first start working on A distraction it's a good idea to be Extremely repetitive and repeat the same Movement exactly the same and then build On it so that the dog is also Habituating to it and finding it Extremely boring and then when the dog Is having success then you want to start Adding variability to the behavior so Your dog is really going to understand The concept of it rather than it Happening in this very small controlled Picture and then in other situations They're going to think their brain is Going to think unconsciously oh this is A different picture it probably doesn't Mean the same thing or they might not Even remember what they're supposed to Do So You're doing the same repetitive Movement and you can build on it exact For example like you're doing this and Then you're dropping the treats and it's Very repetitive and you build on it and Then when they learn it then you start Varying but if you vary too much while You're training the new Behavior like This hello Kiko Um

Then what can happen is the dog can keep Getting up so my fit my theory my tip is That if they get up two to three times In the training session for the same Thing then it's too hard and you need to Go back a step or think of a way to Break up the information break up the Steps so the dog can get it easier now Kiko My Little Chihuahua as you might Have heard me say earlier is 17 and she Is deaf and partially blind so she just Gets to wandering around and get treats And she's a really good distraction for A bliss hey Pepsi today I'm going to be Talking about asking for a behavior at a Distance and beginning from scratch so With epic here she has a couple Behaviors that are pretty strong I Wouldn't say reliable but I believe that By doing some distance work that's a Great way of proofing those behaviors so One behavior that would be super cute is To teaching her to sit and wave from a Distance so I'm beginning by first Warming up with the behavior and getting Her used to the fact that we're just Going to be working on on waving I gave Her a big treat are you ready so I'm Going to ask her to sit and then I'm Going to lure the behavior with the way That I initially trained it just to get Her really Focused and motivated for waving that Paw so on a visual cue and also I can

Have the verbal cue as well which is Called wave so I can say wave good so When I'm first training a behavior I'll Say wave and then do the hand signal so They can learn the verbal cue but then When I'm asking for the behavior I do Both at the same time because otherwise If the dog is super fast they're going To be waving when I've said the cue and Then I'm waving at them after they've Already waved so I find it much more uh Helpful to say wave as at the same time Do both okay and then just make sure They know just the visual and and the Verbal okay before I fill you up with Traits free What I'm going to do is send her to the The mat give her a treat for that so I'm Keeping a high rate of reinforcement for All the other stuff she's doing in Between like waiting for me to shut up And waiting for me to move away And this is going to make her more Likely To want to wave when I'm at a distance Like this make sure I'm still in the Shot but you can see the wave wasn't Very it wasn't very pretty and now she's Sitting right where we usually do the Wave so Um for dogs they think that well not That they think but for for all animals They don't generalize well and the Q has To do with the environment so she's

Trying to make the cue how it's supposed To be by getting right where she's Supposed to be to do the cube so by Having a mat or a couch or the end of a Carpet to help them understand that the Location is part of the queue and this Is part of the cue this location to Begin with it's a little crutch to help Her learn to do the behavior at a Distance so even if the behavior looks Crappy Um that one looks good but you see how She came forward I'm just going to click And then feed her in the position and Then make it easier for her so you don't Have to make training harder and harder Otherwise dogs can lose motivation to uh Want to work I'm trying to break the Treat into a smaller treat it was a Little big my nose always runs when I'm Filming okay super embarrassing oh gosh Okay so she she's copying my arm Movements that's why she uh lifted up Her little paw are you ready another Thing I'm going to do is Mark her not Offering behaviors She said I need to get to that ham There we go okay Wait good Now I'm just going to be quiet and try To get a couple of repetitions that look Good She said you're too far away right now Good

Good Wave good I'm going to wait for her to get back Onto the platform and what I could also Work on free is just being in a Sit Stay At a distance from me Um Because now she's offering a Down She says if I could just get close Enough I could get them Okay here we go are you ready Good she got it Ready That's awfully cute Wave good Good Wave good Good Hold on hold on I'm just getting ready Here We go ready wave good Good and because she keeps jumping off Of this I might try on the couch first Epicy jump up good And see if I can get more distance away From her using the precipice she can Jump down Go jump up And I am going to move this mat so it's Not so confusing for her Ready yes that's right she's like how do I wave and come forwards on this Precipice Good

I'm going to try from further away and Then I'm going to make it easy again So there she didn't do it as precisely But I'm going to come close to her And then get that Precision back so you Want to work on one uh Criterion at a Time so if I want Precision I'm going to Work from close by and if I want to work On distance I'm going to Mark things That I don't think look so pretty But if I work on the both at the same Time that I can go back and fix the Precision so she's more likely Wave to do it precisely from a distance Epic you go out sit wave good whoopsies Almost fell off Epic free Ready epic go jump up Sit wave good Good Wave good job Good Free Good girl Ready Go jump up Good Down Head down Okay good Head down Okay Good Down Up

Cloud up yes good boy down Good Whoops Up Yes good boy Good job Up nice down Good Sit good Pop nice Sit good Down Awesome today's tip is no treats no toys No problem what do I mean by that how Can you get your dog to listen to you if You don't have treats or toys that they Want some dogs they always want the Treats and toys you have and so all you Have to do is bring a little piece of Hot dog in your pocket and your dog will Do anything for you the dog likes the Piece of hot dog better than anything in The environment so you can actually Build that and condition that but Another really important aspect of of The training is three important things One that the dog isn't over aroused or Over excited or fearful if the dog is Suffering from these like extreme Emotions when you're asking them to do a Behavior their brain isn't going to Function the same way they might be in Fights or flight Escape mode and so They're not going to be able to uh to

Comprehend what the whole situation They're either fighting for their life Or if fleeing or going to kill something Maybe it's prey so it's important to Work on your dog's arousal and Excitement first as the as this as the Topic of what you're going to address in Your training so instead of saying oh I Need to proof my recall on my sit my Stay my whatever you want loose leash Walking Um anything any behavior that you find Important if you want those to be Important all you have to do is work on The arousal and then when your dog is Not over excited or scared in a certain Environment then of course they're going To listen if you've reinforced those Behaviors and done some proofing and Generalization the other really Important thing to keep in mind is Teaching your dog the concept that what They want is contingent on doing stuff For you so when you ask something of Your dog do they think oh so if I do What they want I get what I want or does Your dog think oh she's asking me that I Don't feel like doing that I want to do That if only you can teach your dog that Concept that they get to do what they Want to do by listening to you then it's In their best interest and they find it Highly reinforcing because you can Reinforce them with the thing they want

Most so if your dog loves sniffing loves Seeing other dogs loves people instead Of using toys or treats where they're Like I guess I can sit for the treats oh But I really want to see that person and Then they finally get to see the person Like oh I love this much better than the Treats instead of using treats and toys If they're more interested in something Else Social interaction you can use whatever It is that they have that they are Interested in as the reinforcer so you Ask your dog for something really easy And really simple at a distance they're Able to do it and then you can say okay Go say hello or okay go play at the dog Park or or whatever it is that they want To do go sniff a bush and pee on it if That's what their thing is you can make That contingent Um their contingent on doing stuff for You so if you have a marker a dog that Marks around in your yard and then you Call them back inside and then close the Door on them you're literally punishing Them for for coming to you because you Took away something that they wanted They were having a great time and you Ended it by using your recall so if you Keep doing that the science behind the Training is going to say the dog will Come less because you keep taking away The reinforcement and punishing them so

To make it reinforcing you have to be Strategic in that you let your dog out To pee maybe you ask them to do Something for you you let them out to Pee or maybe you've gone to a field They're walking around peeing on stuff You call your dog back and you could Start out really easy by um You're walking on a sidewalk and letting Them sniff bushes and then between Bushes where they see a bush up ahead And they're on a short leash you call Your dog to you and they're like oh I Really don't want to I'd rather sniff That bush but they can't reach it and They're like okay I guess I can turn to You they turn to you you reinforce that By saying good go Sniff and then you Rush over and you're like oh look over There and over there and over there and You point out all the spots for them to Sniff another way of making it a little Easier is you let them sniff that bush You call them away and let them sniff The same Bush so they're finding it Easier because that temptation to sniff The bush is less because they they know What it smells like maybe they've Already peed on it and then you can Begin with baby steps and then build on It so first you're calling them away and They're like yes I can do this with a Bush that doesn't smell that much and Then to I mean which they've gotten to

Sniff already and they're not that Interested in to more exciting stuff Another one is you can part Park in a Parking lot at a park and then there's The green grass that's not reachable yet So it's just boring tarmac or pavement You ask your dog to come to you might be Really hard and you might have to use Treats and toys at first and then when Your dog comes to you then you can say Okay go Sniff and then let them on a Long Leash to go and enjoy sniffing Around if your dog just runs straight Ahead and pulls you one great thing to Do is point out the areas that you want Your dog to smell or you could sprinkle Treats in the grass and point those out As the thing to get your dog to slow Down so they don't just run run away From you and then the final step to Getting your dog to want to listen to You is by not asking too much they are Not robots they are living beings with Desires and wants and needs there are Certain things that they need and There's certain things they want to do And if we just keep making them do Everything that we want them to do all All the time It can feel like nagging like if you've Ever had I don't know maybe you haven't Had someone Nag on you all the time but Constantly being told what to do all the Time so giving your dog choices to make

And also not nagging all the time so Setting the environment up for Success So you're not always having to tell your Dog what to do and the final tip is Building a trusting and reinforcing Relationship with your dog so a lot of People will describe online treat Training as bribing and yes using treats Like that where you bribe the dog I do Believe it's damaging for example Instead of training your dog to want to Go into their kennel some people will Try to trick the dog and they have a Treat they throw the treat in and when The dog goes oh boy a treat and then They go in and they eat it and then You're like haha now you're in your cage Close by and then you leave the dog can Feel tricked the dog feels like whoa Every time this person does something I Think it's going to be something good And then it turns out really bad like For example I was playing with my Friends okay dogs don't talk but they're Playing at the park and then the person Calls me and then he puts me only and She puts me in the car and I thought Something good was gonna happen and Instead he took away you know my fun Time so all these certain examples of of Using a treat or a toy to get your dog To manipulate your dog to do something Is not what I'm talking about it's about Creating reinforcement for behavior that

You like so you're not trying to trick Your dog into doing something that's in Not in their best interest but you're Not only giving your dog choices Throughout the day allowing them to Enjoy different activities that come Natural to their breed but also you're Asking things of them and providing Reinforcement that they actually enjoy So maybe it's treats maybe it's toys or Maybe it's access to what they want Nobody likes to be nagged all the time So try to keep that in mind that dogs Aren't these robots especially if you Have a puppy or an adolescent dog They've literally only been on earth a Couple of months so to expect this dog To listen to every single thing you ask Them to we would never ask that of a Human or a toddler or a baby so really Keeping that in mind that you want to Ask your dog to do things but keep it to A point where it's not just a ridiculous Amount that we're asking from our dogs And making it fun and positive for them And then you're going to get a dog that Really wants to do the things that you Want to do because you get you also Allow them to do the things they want to Do and it's a mutual uh wonderful Relationship to have with an animal hey Epic yeah you get scratches something That she really likes it's having her Neck scratched like this hey epic oh she

Like that Here's some footage of my border collie Halo at about nine months old where for A month he stopped finding food Reinforcing when we were out of the House and as you can see in this footage He still is able to do the behaviors Because I've played games like the ones That I've described in this video You want the treat Ready twirl Halo go legs hey little legs okay go go Play Hello come Down Okay go play go play Thank you so much for watching if you'd Like to support my work don't forget to Like this video and leave me a comment As it's highly reinforcing to me you can Also subscribe to my channel and become A supporting member of Channel Kiko pop By clicking the join button see you Later